Page Contents
The reason Ruth’s Chris Steak House switched from dry-aged to wet-aged steaks
A night at Ruth’s Chris Steak House is always an extravagant experience. From the white tablecloths to the sizzling plates, a meal at Ruth’s Chris is meant to be savored. The appetizers, sides, drinks, and desserts are all outstanding, but the “belle of the ball” – of course – are the restaurant’s rich, beefy, iconic steaks. According to the official website, Ruth’s Chris uses “the finest, custom-aged, corn-fed Midwestern beef” and “USDA Prime, which represents the top 2-3% of cattle on the market. Steaks are never frozen.
Ruth’s Chris offers a variety of cuts (from filet mignon and porterhouse to tomahawk and rib eye) and broils the steaks at 1800 degrees Fahrenheit, relying on the quality of the beef rather than fancy garnishes or sauces. Typically, your steak is served with nothing more than butter, salt and pepper, and a few herbs. If you’ve ever wondered why your steaks at home don’t seem to measure up to those at Ruth’s Chris, it could be because their beef quality is top-notch, they cook steaks in intensely hot broilers not found in home kitchens, and all of their steaks are wet-aged.
Why wet-age?
Ruth Fertel’s son explained that she chose wet-aged steaks over dry-aged for consistency, time, and cost. For context, wet-ageing is essentially vacuum-sealing beef and letting it sit, often in a refrigerator, for weeks, according to Serious Eats. The website for the Ruth’s Chris Riverwalk location in San Antonio says that “Ruth Chris steaks are refrigerated and aged for 24 to 28 days,” which helps “break down enzymes to enhance tenderness.”
Dry aging involves hanging larger cuts of beef for longer periods of time in a ventilated room with tightly controlled temperature and humidity. The meat loses water weight and gains mold, and the moldy portion is removed. (Ruth’s Chris’ dry-aged steaks would occasionally spoil.) Robb Report notes that water loss and discarding moldy parts can cut the weight of the meat in half, effectively making it twice as expensive. According to Sterling Pacific Meat, wet-aged beef often costs 20% to 50% less than dry-aged beef.
The benefits are many: wet-aging takes less time, requires less storage space, requires less labor, and doesn’t require a master butcher to oversee the process. According to The Kitchn, the flavor benefits of dry versus wet curing are a matter of personal preference. But it’s clear that wet-aging certainly offers many advantages. Ruth’s Chris’ iconic sizzling platters are sure to remain popular, and for good reason.
We’re in the age of wet-aging.
The economic rationale behind Ruth Fertel’s decision to switch from dry-aged to wet-aged meat is shared by most in the industry. As Taste of the Woods puts it, “It’s cheap, dead easy to do right, and gives excellent results. In other words, it’s a product that requires less investment and offers higher returns. Naturally, it will dominate the market.
This dominance could be seen as early as 2010. In an article published by The Atlantic that year, butcher Tom Mylan paid wet-ageing the seemingly backhanded compliment of saying that if 90% of the beef brought home from American grocery stores is wet-aged, then “it can’t be all bad.” This statistic becomes somewhat shocking, however, when Mylan notes that this increase has only occurred over the course of 30 years. Basically, steak and beef sellers everywhere discovered the magic of plastic bags and haven’t looked back since.
The problem with wet-aged steak
If wet-aged steak were simply outdated dry-aged meat, Ruth Fertel wouldn’t have to make a choice. She would simply follow the contours of the industry. However, as Tom Mylan’s tepid endorsement (via The Atlantic) suggests, wet-aged steak is largely considered inferior to dry-aged steak. Oak Barn Beef put it this way on their beef blog: “Dry aging is using time and technique to produce the highest quality beef for you and your family.” Tender Filet notes, “If a meat supplier does not specify ‘dry-aged,’ you can assume the beef is wet-aged. A supplier who goes to the expense and risk of dry aging will make sure you know about it.” In other words, wet-aged meat is considered a step down.
About me
The reason Ruth’s Chris Steak House switched from dry-aged to wet-aged steaks
A night at Ruth’s Chris Steak House is always an extravagant experience. From the white tablecloths to the sizzling plates, a meal at Ruth’s Chris is meant to be savored. The appetizers, sides, drinks, and desserts are all outstanding, but the “belle of the ball” – of course – are the restaurant’s rich, beefy, iconic steaks. According to the official website, Ruth’s Chris uses “the finest, custom-aged, corn-fed Midwestern beef” and “USDA Prime, which represents the top 2-3% of cattle on the market. Steaks are never frozen.
Ruth’s Chris offers a variety of cuts (from filet mignon and porterhouse to tomahawk and rib eye) and broils the steaks at 1800 degrees Fahrenheit, relying on the quality of the beef rather than fancy garnishes or sauces. Typically, your steak is served with nothing more than butter, salt and pepper, and a few herbs. If you’ve ever wondered why your steaks at home don’t seem to measure up to those at Ruth’s Chris, it could be because their beef quality is top-notch, they cook steaks in intensely hot broilers not found in home kitchens, and all of their steaks are wet-aged.
Why wet-age?
Ruth Fertel’s son explained that she chose wet-aged steaks over dry-aged for consistency, time, and cost. For context, wet-ageing is essentially vacuum-sealing beef and letting it sit, often in a refrigerator, for weeks, according to Serious Eats. The website for the Ruth’s Chris Riverwalk location in San Antonio says that “Ruth Chris steaks are refrigerated and aged for 24 to 28 days,” which helps “break down enzymes to enhance tenderness.”
Dry aging involves hanging larger cuts of beef for longer periods of time in a ventilated room with tightly controlled temperature and humidity. The meat loses water weight and gains mold, and the moldy portion is removed. (Ruth’s Chris’ dry-aged steaks would occasionally spoil.) Robb Report notes that water loss and discarding moldy parts can cut the weight of the meat in half, effectively making it twice as expensive. According to Sterling Pacific Meat, wet-aged beef often costs 20% to 50% less than dry-aged beef.
The benefits are many: wet-aging takes less time, requires less storage space, requires less labor, and doesn’t require a master butcher to oversee the process. According to The Kitchn, the flavor benefits of dry versus wet curing are a matter of personal preference. But it’s clear that wet-aging certainly offers many advantages. Ruth’s Chris’ iconic sizzling platters are sure to remain popular, and for good reason.
We’re in the age of wet-aging.
The economic rationale behind Ruth Fertel’s decision to switch from dry-aged to wet-aged meat is shared by most in the industry. As Taste of the Woods puts it, “It’s cheap, dead easy to do right, and gives excellent results. In other words, it’s a product that requires less investment and offers higher returns. Naturally, it will dominate the market.
This dominance could be seen as early as 2010. In an article published by The Atlantic that year, butcher Tom Mylan paid wet-ageing the seemingly backhanded compliment of saying that if 90% of the beef brought home from American grocery stores is wet-aged, then “it can’t be all bad.” This statistic becomes somewhat shocking, however, when Mylan notes that this increase has only occurred over the course of 30 years. Basically, steak and beef sellers everywhere discovered the magic of plastic bags and haven’t looked back since.
The problem with wet-aged steak
If wet-aged steak were simply outdated dry-aged meat, Ruth Fertel wouldn’t have to make a choice. She would simply follow the contours of the industry. However, as Tom Mylan’s tepid endorsement (via The Atlantic) suggests, wet-aged steak is largely considered inferior to dry-aged steak. Oak Barn Beef put it this way on their beef blog: “Dry aging is using time and technique to produce the highest quality beef for you and your family.” Tender Filet notes, “If a meat supplier does not specify ‘dry-aged,’ you can assume the beef is wet-aged. A supplier who goes to the expense and risk of dry aging will make sure you know about it.” In other words, wet-aged meat is considered a step down.
However
FAQS
What is the difference between dry-aged and wet-aged steaks?
Dry-aged steaks are hung in a ventilated room to allow moisture to evaporate, resulting in a concentrated flavor. Wet-aged steaks are vacuum-sealed and refrigerated to retain more moisture and tenderness.
Why did Ruth’s Chris Steak House decide to switch to wet-aged steaks?
Ruth’s Chris made the switch for consistency, time and cost reasons. Wet aging allows for more control over the aging process, requires less storage space, and is more cost effective than dry aging.
Does wet aging affect the flavor of the steaks?
The flavor benefits of wet versus dry aging can be subjective and a matter of personal preference. Some people enjoy the more intense flavor of dry-aged steaks, while others appreciate the tenderness and juiciness of wet-aged steaks.
How long are steaks wet-aged at Ruth’s Chris Steak House?
According to the Ruth’s Chris Riverwalk location in San Antonio, steaks are refrigerated and aged for 24 to 28 days to enhance tenderness and flavor.
Are wet-aged steaks less expensive than dry-aged steaks?
Yes, wet-aged beef generally costs less than dry-aged beef. The wet-ageing process is less time-consuming, requires less labor, and requires less storage space, all of which contribute to lower production costs.
Will the switch to wet-aged steaks affect the quality of Ruth’s Chris steaks?
Ruth’s Chris Steak House is known for its commitment to quality and uses USDA Prime beef, which represents the top 2-3% of cattle on the market. While wet-ageing may have some differences compared to dry-ageing, the restaurant ensures that its wet-aged steaks maintain the high standards and delicious flavor that customers have come to expect.